[junki]

I'm slowly planning out the parts and tools I'll need to install front lowering springs on my G80 xDrive that is still in production. Obviously, planning how I'll do the install is really important to figuring what tools to buy.

I was planning on leaving the top hat attached to the car, removing the tie rod, removing the strut bracket, and leaving the strut attached to the knuckle everywhere else. I'd then lower the whole assembly using a lift supporting the bottom knuckle, let the spring decompress while lowering, and then swing the top of the strut out of the wheel well to replace the spring.

This is how you'd do it for a RWD. But, for xDrive, there's the axle.

My question is, if I remove the axle bolt, would that allow me to do this? Does anyone know?

[Shaninnik]

Leave top hats there, that's how I did it my RWD and that is how they do it in this vid on xDrive

This is much easier than removing entire strut with spring on it and then using spring compressors. Also much easier to put it back. Just be careful with top bearings, sometimes they separate (mine did not). And don't use impact on top strut nut, get special 18mm socket.

[junki]

Originally Posted by Shaninnik

Leave top hats there, that's how I did it my RWD and that is how they do it in this vid on xDrive

This is much easier than removing entire strut with spring on it and then using spring compressors. Also much easier to put it back. Just be careful with top bearings, sometimes they separate (mine did not). And don't use impact on top strut nut, get special 18mm socket.

HUGE thanks for the video. While you didn't really answer my question, the video definitely addressed it: removing the axle bolt will allow me to install the springs in the easy way without worrying about popping the axle out (and having to pop it back in). PERFECT.

[M4Lou]

You DON'T need to remove the axle bolt to get the spring out. Here is a video of the Raleigh boys doing it. Somewhere around the 8min mark he puts tension on strut w/ floor jack, takes strut top nut off and then takes off the three-bolt axle hat out. The top spring lifts over the top of the strut and then you just spin it off. It is magic

I am near certain that I did NOT have to loosen the lower control arm bolts like he did.

Those axle bolts are huge TTY deals. I preferred to NOT remove those.

Also - I am super happy w/ the Eibach springs in my X-M4comp. I did not want the adjustable deals that drop it till it scrubs, etc. Plus - way more involved .

[junki]

Originally Posted by M4Lou

You DON'T need to remove the axle bolt to get the spring out. Here is a video of the Raleigh boys doing it. Somewhere around the 8min mark he puts tension on strut w/ floor jack, takes strut top nut off and then takes off the three-bolt axle hat out.

Whoa WHAT??!?! Okay this is now the new method. I guess I'm going to return the huge breaker bar and digital torque meter I bought for the axle bolt...

Did he pull the dust cover and bump stock out of the hole at the top????

[forcefed]

I installed my front springs on my xdrive using the rwd method, the axle is in the way but if you just pull the shock towards you it'll pull the axle out a bit, then if you compress the shock rod a bit it'll clear the fender and you can take the spring out, i also removed the fender liner for more clearance. After you swap the spring just push the shock towards the engine and pop the axle back in.
Just make sure when you're compressing the shock/spring everything is lined up on the top hat, double and triple check...

[M4Lou]

Originally Posted by junki

Whoa WHAT??!?! Okay this is now the new method. I guess I'm going to return the huge breaker bar and digital torque meter I bought for the axle bolt...

Did he pull the dust cover and bump stock out of the hole at the top????

Pretty sure those will both come out from below - don't remember the bump stop but do remember that it wasn't an issue.

That front coil method keeps you from having to pull the axle bolt and if you are just putting lowering springs back in, it is easy. If you are doing some wonky chinese billet adjustable kit, you'll need to use strut housing spreaders and pull the strut.

When re-assembling make sure you get dust boot seated back right and that top of spring seats in the strut top mount/hat correctly. I watched it go north w/ flashlight as I jacked my floor jack. I've got a four post lift (easier for the rears) but did my fronts on the deck w/ a floor jack. Also - strut top mount bolts were basically new and I re-used. Put a touch of loctite blue there. VERY happy w/ my Eibach pro-kit.

All I remember!

(google search and watch as many video's as possible)

[junki]

Can you elaborate more on how you twisted the spring off the strut without top clearance?

Originally Posted by M4Lou

Pretty sure those will both come out from below - don't remember the bump stop but do remember that it wasn't an issue.

That front coil method keeps you from having to pull the axle bolt and if you are just putting lowering springs back in, it is easy. If you are doing some wonky chinese billet adjustable kit, you'll need to use strut housing spreaders and pull the strut.

When re-assembling make sure you get dust boot seated back right and that top of spring seats in the strut top mount/hat correctly. I watched it go north w/ flashlight as I jacked my floor jack. I've got a four post lift (easier for the rears) but did my fronts on the deck w/ a floor jack. Also - strut top mount bolts were basically new and I re-used. Put a touch of loctite blue there. VERY happy w/ my Eibach pro-kit.

All I remember!

(google search and watch as many video's as possible)

[M4Lou]

Originally Posted by junki

Can you elaborate more on how you twisted the spring off the strut without top clearance?

You take liner out for clearance and you take top spring mount out for clearance (the Raleigh boys loosened lower control arm bolts/nuts to give more slack so suspension would lower more - but I swear, I didn't do this) - pull boot and bumpstop out - slide top ring of coil over top of strut shaft and spin. Comes off like a screw. Re-insert same way. Get new spring back in and then put bumpstop in and boot. Bolt upper mount back in and carefully jack back up w/ flashlight watching carefully so it will seat correctly (like forcefed said too). Again - the adjustable deals are different - you gotta take the strut out.

Its a pretty elegant procedure - finesse, etc. My X3M, now - was a bloody knuckle brawl. (I tried the Raleigh method and no bueno).

[M4Lou]

There is** just enough clearance to get it done.

[junki]

Man I really appreciate this. You even took pictures. Thank you so much.

Originally Posted by M4Lou

You take liner out for clearance and you take top spring mount out for clearance (the Raleigh boys loosened lower control arm bolts/nuts to give more slack so suspension would lower more - but I swear, I didn't do this) - pull boot and bumpstop out - slide top ring of coil over top of strut shaft and spin. Comes off like a screw. Re-insert same way. Get new spring back in and then put bumpstop in and boot. Bolt upper mount back in and carefully jack back up w/ flashlight watching carefully so it will seat correctly (like forcefed said too). Again - the adjustable deals are different - you gotta take the strut out.

Its a pretty elegant procedure - finesse, etc. My X3M, now - was a bloody knuckle brawl. (I tried the Raleigh method and no bueno).

[Jhanksm3]

great info that will be useful when I do xdrive suspension

[M2taz]

Thanks for everyone share these details. I ordered the coils directly from Eibach (E10-20-049-10-20) for $185 shipped from California. I can confirm you can replace the coils without removing the axle bolts on a 2025 M3 xdrive. Just unscrew it as M4Lou demonstrated. Liner and top cap will also need to be removed. It's a bit of a wrestling match but it's not too bad. Also, be sure you reconnect the adaptive suspension cable at the top of the strut correctly. I didn't and got a code. Easy fix thankfully. The ride quality seems identical to stock and sits near level now, it still needs to settle. I also installed spacers, 10mm front and 12mm rear. I'm very happy with the stance now.