[ginohhh]

Rear brakes were developed by the goat himself dentprotony@gmail.com 🙌

I recently upgraded my brakes, and I’m thoroughly impressed. The product quality and fitment are excellent—everything fit perfectly. On the track, these brakes held up to significant abuse and delivered stopping power. I didn’t feel a change in brake bias.

Install was a breeze. The installation of this brake kit was a breeze. It came with everything needed, including torque specs and clear instructions on how everything should go together. If you’re comfortable changing out your own brake pads, you’ll have no trouble with this install. If you’re unsure about anything, you can text or call Tony anytime and he’ll be able to help you right away.


Changing out the pads took less than 5 minutes—just two bolts, and voila! Plus, they look much better than the stock brakes. No need to worry about putting the rear brakes in service mode due to electronic ebrake

I highly recommend this brake system for anyone looking to enhance both performance and aesthetics. This is how our cars should’ve come from the factory.

Hit up dentprotony@gmail.com if you want a set! 😎

[SwankPeRFection]

What’s up with the ground down caliper and the off kilter caliper mounting?

[MacRozie]

What’s the going rate for his kit?

[docjavier]

Originally Posted by MacRozie

What’s the going rate for his kit?

+2

[TJay74]

Originally Posted by SwankPeRFection

What’s up with the ground down caliper and the off kilter caliper mounting?

Where are you seeing the caliper ground down at? I looked all through the OP's pics and cant find one place where the caliper looks like it was clearanced or ground down.

[SwankPeRFection]

Originally Posted by TJay74

Where are you seeing the caliper ground down at? I looked all through the OP's pics and cant find one place where the caliper looks like it was clearanced or ground down.

Second pic. Maybe it’s just a weird lighting effect on the pic with the camera picking it up weird, but it does look like it’s sanded down. It’s a weird place to do it, but considering the bottom of the caliper is angled up due to a mounting issue on this setup now going perfectly perpendicular with the rotor… I dunno… this has been posted before and it looks like the maker of this kit never did address that issue before reselling.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by SwankPeRFection

Second pic. Maybe it’s just a weird lighting effect on the pic with the camera picking it up weird, but it does look like it’s sanded down. It’s a weird place to do it, but considering the bottom of the caliper is angled up due to a mounting issue on this setup now going perfectly perpendicular with the rotor… I dunno… this has been posted before and it looks like the maker of this kit never did address that issue before reselling.

I don’t see any sanding in the second picture. Also, the upper caliper mounting SHCS isn’t fully engaged.

The only thing I see is the caliper is slightly rotated so the inner radius of the pad may contact this non-oem mounting hat at the top (upper arrow) and a small clearance between the lower part of the pad and hat.

[forcefed]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

I don’t see any sanding in the second picture. Also, the upper caliper mounting SHCS isn’t fully engaged.

The only thing I see is the caliper is slightly rotated so the inner radius of the pad may contact this non-oem mounting hat at the top (upper arrow) and a small clearance between the lower part of the pad and hat.

I wonder if that's an oopsie or they did it so the other side of the pad covers the outer part of the rotor.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by forcefed

I wonder if that's an oopsie or they did it so the other side of the pad covers the outer part of the rotor.

I think it’s a mistake but the oem rotors don’t have a hat connected to the rotor so it might be harder to see it. The real question is whether there’s full coverage at the rotor OD without any pad overhang. The second picture makes it look like there’s a lot of pad overhang but I hope that’s due to the caliper black mounting SHCS not being completely installed.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by ginohhh

Rear brakes were developed by the goat himself dentprotony@gmail.com 🙌

I recently upgraded my brakes, and I’m thoroughly impressed. The product quality and fitment are excellent—everything fit perfectly. On the track, these brakes held up to significant abuse and delivered stopping power. I didn’t feel a change in brake bias.

Install was a breeze. The installation of this brake kit was a breeze. It came with everything needed, including torque specs and clear instructions on how everything should go together. If you’re comfortable changing out your own brake pads, you’ll have no trouble with this install. If you’re unsure about anything, you can text or call Tony anytime and he’ll be able to help you right away.


Changing out the pads took less than 5 minutes—just two bolts, and voila! Plus, they look much better than the stock brakes. No need to worry about putting the rear brakes in service mode due to electronic ebrake

I highly recommend this brake system for anyone looking to enhance both performance and aesthetics. This is how our cars should’ve come from the factory.

Hit up dentprotony@gmail.com if you want a set! 😎

There’s a brake bias comparison earlier in the original thread about this rear setup. There’s roughly a 0.5% difference in forward brake bias.

[TopJimmy]

I have Tony’s kit, and helped him spec out the prototype on my G80. I also tested the first for-sale unit, after Tony adjusted from the prototype with my comments/requests.

The pads fit perfectly like OEM with a 1mm inset, no overhang. Prototype was flush, but Tony fixed the inset. I used iSweep pads on the rears (yes, available) so we would know the inset suited pad brands enthusiasts use.

We tried several brake hose setups and brackets, to find an OEM+ fitment. Tony was adamant that his kit was 101% perfect.

The paint job is that good…you saw the paint mirroring light off the corner…its not scraped. Shipping and packing was quality like race brakes…foam box made for brakes, tons of bubble wrap, arrived perfect.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by TopJimmy

I have Tony’s kit, and helped him spec out the prototype on my G80. I also tested the first for-sale unit, after Tony adjusted from the prototype with my comments/requests.

The pads fit perfectly like OEM with a 1mm inset, no overhang. Prototype was flush, but Tony fixed the inset. I used iSweep pads on the rears (yes, available) so we would know the inset suited pad brands enthusiasts use.

We tried several brake hose setups and brackets, to find an OEM+ fitment. Tony was adamant that his kit was 101% perfect.

The paint job is that good…you saw the paint mirroring light off the corner…its not scraped. Shipping and packing was quality like race brakes…foam box made for brakes, tons of bubble wrap, arrived perfect.

There’s clearly a small tilt in the caliper, which is actually mounted in an odd location on the rotor (primary braking caliper should be mounted at or close to the location of the EPB), that’s causing the inner pad radius to touch the non-oem rotor with an integral mounting hat. The same tilt also exists at the pad outer radius which may have a larger radius than the inner radius and, therefore, not create an issue with overhang and/or outer swept area. I have a feeling there’ll be an inner radius issue with the hats and floating systems used by Girodisc and Paragon two-piece rotors. Some rotors have a small lip at the inner radius slightly larger radius than the mounting hat radius. Has this kit been tested on a car with Girodisc and/or Paragon rear brake rotors?

[TopJimmy]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

There’s clearly a small tilt in the caliper, which is actually mounted in an odd location on the rotor (primary braking caliper should be mounted at or close to the location of the EPB), that’s causing the inner pad radius to touch the non-oem rotor with an integral mounting hat. The same tilt also exists at the pad outer radius which may have a larger radius than the inner radius and, therefore, not create an issue with overhang and/or outer swept area. I have a feeling there’ll be an inner radius issue with the hats and floating systems used by Girodisc and Paragon two-piece rotors. Some rotors have a small lip at the inner radius slightly larger radius than the mounting hat radius. Has this kit been tested on a car with Girodisc and/or Paragon rear brake rotors?

I didn’t check with aftermarket discs like giros or EBC, only my OEMs. In my pix the gray prototype caliper shows 6mm of clearance to the inside OEM rotor, and we moved it inwards 1mm on the production units.

I think the pad looking angled is just tilt from camera angle. As long as an aftermarket disc isn’t +5mm ID (due to hat diameter, etc.) versus OEM, and same OD or +1mm versus OEM then it should fit fine.

My pic of the production red caliper is straight-on, so you can see from the gray straight-on pic how the caliper was moved in 1mm for best fitment. My wider ISweep pads on the red set took up some of the 4mm.

[SwankPeRFection]

Why didn’t the dude just machine or sand down the mating surface of the caliper mount points so that you get even and proper depth engagement? I still see the tilt. The mounting position is just off, either off-center with the rotor or at the wrong angle by just a tad. Just looks unfinished.

Actually, let me rephrase that. The fact that a bracket was created to deal with the different mounting points between stock and these calipers and those brackets weren’t made to exacting fit requirements makes you wonder… 🙄

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by TopJimmy

I didn’t check with aftermarket discs like giros or EBC, only my OEMs. In my pix the gray prototype caliper shows 6mm of clearance to the inside OEM rotor, and we moved it inwards 1mm on the production units.

I think the pad looking angled is just tilt from camera angle. As long as an aftermarket disc isn’t +5mm ID (due to hat diameter, etc.) versus OEM, and same OD or +1mm versus OEM then it should fit fine.

My pic of the production red caliper is straight-on, so you can see from the gray straight-on pic how the caliper was moved in 1mm for best fitment. My wider ISweep pads on the red set took up some of the 4mm.

The blue caliper has a different caliper mounting placement from your red caliper. How can you adjust your caliper radially inward 1 mm without having an issue at the rotor OD? Either the pad was already overhanging the rotor OD or it now sits inboard of the rotor OD. Getting the rotor OD and pad OR to match so there’s no overhang (portion of pad doesn’t get used) or the pad OR doesn’t extend to the rotor OD (a lip forms on the rotor as the rotor wears). Also, there’s a reason why BMW mounts their calipers inboard of the rotors (e.g., rear caliper mounts in front of rear rotor, and front caliper mounts behind the front rotor). How is the rear caliper adapter bracket connect to the rear non-rotating structure?

[TopJimmy]

It’s still camera angle making the pad look crooked. The pad meat is thick so the plates sit up a bit, and camera angle plays more. You’d need a straight-on pic to be satisfied.

Dust plate gets removed. Mounting plate attaches with giant cap bolts into the threads where the OEM caliper went. Three extra smaller cap bolts secure the plate to the wheel holder. New caliper relocates so the standalone EPB can stay in range of the OEM cable connectors. It’s easier to swap brake lines than to build custom EPB cable extenders.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by TopJimmy

It’s still camera angle making the pad look crooked. The pad meat is thick so the plates sit up a bit, and camera angle plays more. You’d need a straight-on pic to be satisfied.

Dust plate gets removed. Mounting plate attaches with giant cap bolts into the threads where the OEM caliper went. Three extra smaller cap bolts secure the plate to the wheel holder. New caliper relocates so the standalone EPB can stay in range of the OEM cable connectors. It’s easier to swap brake lines than to build custom EPB cable extenders.

Main caliper placement should have priority over the placement of an EPB caliper.

I’m not following where the new large bracket bolts to the hub assembly in multiple locations and where the EPB mounts? There are small and raised locations with small holes/fasteners that are reacting main caliper loads. There’s more than just lateral shear passed from the main caliper to the bracket and the closest mounting location has a small pair of fasteners. Does the original sliding-piston caliper bolt to the vertical edge directly across from where the fixed caliper is mounted? I’m trying to understand the primary load path of the fixed caliper vertical and lateral primary and secondary loads are reacted. It also appears that internal threads were tapped directly into the aluminum bracket i.e., no helicoils, keenserts, ez-loks, etc. steel/phosphorus bronze inserts were used? The loads being reacted by the original two sliding-piston caliper mounting holes are not the same as the loads coming from the sliding-piston caliper. I think I know the answer to this question but was any simple structural hand analysis, including thermally-induced mechanical loads, done on the new bracket and statically-indeterminate load path to its mounting locations? This bracket has to survive a large number of altering mechanical and thermally-induced loads, not just a single constant static loading.

[TopJimmy]

M3SQRD it sounds like you want to hash this out with a structural or mechanical engineer. That’s not me, sorry…

[forcefed]

Originally Posted by TopJimmy

It’s still camera angle making the pad look crooked. The pad meat is thick so the plates sit up a bit, and camera angle plays more. You’d need a straight-on pic to be satisfied.

Dust plate gets removed. Mounting plate attaches with giant cap bolts into the threads where the OEM caliper went. Three extra smaller cap bolts secure the plate to the wheel holder. New caliper relocates so the standalone EPB can stay in range of the OEM cable connectors. It’s easier to swap brake lines than to build custom EPB cable extenders.

Did you pull the axles to install those brackets?

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by TopJimmy

M3SQRD it sounds like you want to hash this out with a structural or mechanical engineer. That’s not me, sorry…

No. I’m trying to understand how this large bracket mounts to the rear hub assembly. The load distribution is far from stock and, it appears, the loads generated by the main 4-piston fixed caliper are higher and may be reacted by much smaller screws, as well as larger screws, that are tapped directly into alum holes. The steel SHCS can gall onto alum threaded holes. I can assess the structural integrity of the design if I understand what holes or raised bosses are used to mount the bracket. I wasn’t asking if you did any structural hand analysis , or FEA, to determine if the bracket can withstand at least 100,000, probably more like ~700,000 (75 brake events per day * 365 days/year * 25 years = 684,375), repeated brake applications over the life of the car braking system + thermally-induced braking loads. A more realistic load spectra could be developed from minimal braking events (10% of max braking) to moderate braking events (50% of max braking) to maximum braking events (100% of max braking), etc. I’m concerned the two outboard small screws adjacent to the new 4-piston caliper mounting location may react more load than they can withstand under repeated cycles.

[TopJimmy]

Originally Posted by forcefed

Did you pull the axles to install those brackets?

No, they go right over.

[TopJimmy]

M3SQRD I know I can’t speak to the bolts and stuff, but you had asked about pad centering. Today while swapping wheels I measured both inside and outside edge ridges, which were 2.0 and 1.6mm, so the pads are centered well. My pix are completely parallel and show how the pads do sit straight, not crooked.