[McLaren720s]

Originally Posted by mzcp

Nice. How low did you go with the MSS? I found the rear MSS springs a little soft for track on my M2C. I can't wait to see your review on track.

The front is as low as possible and I think the rear dropped around 15mm.
Overall, it's a moderate drop which is what I wanted. It looks much better than stock and I have no risk of rubbing under max compression at the track.

My first track day with the MSS HAS and new alignment will be next weekend!

[beachBmmr]

Originally Posted by McLaren720s

The front is as low as possible and I think the rear dropped around 15mm.
Overall, it's a moderate drop which is what I wanted. It looks much better than stock and I have no risk of rubbing under max compression at the track.

My first track day with the MSS HAS and new alignment will be next weekend!

Take Tire temps!
Let me know how it handles.

[GixY2K]

Originally Posted by PLF69

Anyone as an alignment done on a Xdrive model ? Really curious since lower control arms have different part numbers between RWD and AWD..

What he said.

I'm also curious to see if there is any deviation from RWD alignment specs.

[Blk5er33]

So what alignment settings would you recommend on stock suspension for a daily driver that goes to the track 1 weekend per month?

[beachBmmr]

Originally Posted by Blk5er33

So what alignment settings would you recommend on stock suspension for a daily driver that goes to the track 1 weekend per month?

You can drive around on -3.2 degree camber up front and zero toe with limited issues aside from tramlining and -2. Camber with slight toe in in rear.

Drove around like this for a while.

[andyho123]

Originally Posted by Boomer 2019

These are my Before (1) and After (2) alignment results. (2) is a track alignment for the tracks where I do the majority of my driving. This shop is specifically track oriented, and he was shocked at the front camber delivered by BMW. Since front camber is fixed, there is nothing to be done about it other than camber plates or major front end surgery. Surgery still wouldn't result in ideal camber, so since the car handles beautifully through the turns as is, I have opted to wait for the camber plates.

Anyway, the takeaway here is that if you are going to drive your G80/82 on a track regularly you really should get a proper track alignment, and camber plates STAT.

Any idea of why there's a big delta between your left and right fronts? I know it is not adjustable but shouldn't it be closer delta? I am experiencing the same thing at the moment

[lutfy]

Are there any camber pins or camber correction pins on the top hats (like they did on the E9X, when removed, allowed the struts to move in some and gain camber) on our chassis?

TIA!

Lutfy

[Boomer 2019]

Originally Posted by beachBmmr

You can drive around on -3.2 degree camber up front and zero toe with limited issues aside from tramlining and -2. Camber with slight toe in in rear.

Drove around like this for a while.

I have driven with -3.1 and 0 toe up front, and -2.0 and 1/16 toe rear for a year now ever since installing the MP HAS, and I have never experienced any tramlining regardless of surface conditions. ?? The steering has always been crisp and precise. And as a side benefit, the front tire wear has remained perfect. Absolutely equal across the face of the tires, and with no roll over inside or out.

[Hit_Apex]

Originally Posted by lutfy

Are there any camber pins or camber correction pins on the top hats (like they did on the E9X, when removed, allowed the struts to move in some and gain camber) on our chassis?

TIA!

Lutfy

No, not pins. You can replace the hubs with the CSL version to get more “OEM” camber.

[Blk5er33]

Originally Posted by Boomer 2019

I have driven with -3.1 and 0 toe up front, and -2.0 and 1/16 toe rear for a year now ever since installing the MP HAS, and I have never experienced any tramlining regardless of surface conditions. ?? The steering has always been crisp and precise. And as a side benefit, the front tire wear has remained perfect. Absolutely equal across the face of the tires, and with no roll over inside or out.

I second this. I actually had a lot of tramlining with front -3 camber and significant toe in like 1/8, which ended up cording the inner front tires. Now I stick with 0 toe.

[Hybridizer]

Originally Posted by Blk5er33

I second this. I actually had a lot of tramlining with front -3 camber and significant toe in like 1/8, which ended up cording the inner front tires. Now I stick with 0 toe.

Installing my camber plates tonight, then prepping to have a track alignment setup. For an xdrive would you guys adjust the settings listed?

I'm stock spring height and only millway front plates.

Figured I'd request max camber with plateson the front. Hopefully -3 with zero toe front and factory spec toe rear?

I've read the 5 or 6 discussions on camber settings. I didn't see many xdrive references or if that comes into play. MoProblems gave me the advice of max camber I can get front and rear and factory toe specs.

Do you guys agree?

I track the car once a month avg with the rest being street driving.


Looking to see if anyone else has input. I checked factory camber specs stock right now looks to be -1.6 camber front and back as is. I'm by NOT pushing the car in advanced to it's limits., but I have noticed from wear that some added camber will have benefit.

[kolosy]

Originally Posted by Hybridizer

Installing my camber plates tonight, then prepping to have a track alignment setup. For an xdrive would you guys adjust the settings listed?

I'm stock spring height and only millway front plates.

Figured I'd request max camber with plateson the front. Hopefully -3 with zero toe front and factory spec toe rear?

I've read the 5 or 6 discussions on camber settings. I didn't see many xdrive references or if that comes into play. MoProblems gave me the advice of max camber I can get front and rear and factory toe specs.

Do you guys agree?

I track the car once a month avg with the rest being street driving.


Looking to see if anyone else has input. I checked factory camber specs stock right now looks to be -1.6 camber front and back as is. I'm by NOT pushing the car in advanced to it's limits., but I have noticed from wear that some added camber will have benefit.

sub'd. just ordered vorschlag plates and millway monoballs. going to be doing this shortly.

fwiw i ran -3.5 front / -2 rear on my E90 and that wore pretty evenly.

[m4ml]

Originally Posted by Hybridizer

Installing my camber plates tonight, then prepping to have a track alignment setup. For an xdrive would you guys adjust the settings listed?

I'm stock spring height and only millway front plates.

Figured I'd request max camber with plateson the front. Hopefully -3 with zero toe front and factory spec toe rear?

I've read the 5 or 6 discussions on camber settings. I didn't see many xdrive references or if that comes into play. MoProblems gave me the advice of max camber I can get front and rear and factory toe specs.

Do you guys agree?

I track the car once a month avg with the rest being street driving.


Looking to see if anyone else has input. I checked factory camber specs stock right now looks to be -1.6 camber front and back as is. I'm by NOT pushing the car in advanced to it's limits., but I have noticed from wear that some added camber will have benefit.

I am running -3.2°, zero toe front with Millway camber plates and -2.5°, 1/16" toe rear with SPL upper arms (well, full SPL rear) on an xDrive. I am on KWv4s, lower than stock, but that shouldn't matter for your purposes.

I've heard anecdotes of some people getting as much as -2.5° in the rear on the stock suspension, but I get the sense that that would be the exception, not the rule. If you're trying to get around -2.5° or more out of the rear (or just want the flexibility and ease of adjustment), you'd need to consider at least adjustable rear upper arms.

Also note that I'm running 12mm spacers in front (effective 19"x9.5" ET8 offset) and 15mm in the rear (effective 20"x10.5" ET 5 offset) with my OEM wheels. We've finally got my rear end adjusted where during normal highway driving there is zero rub under all conditions (I used to have a slight whisper of rub during large parabolic dips on the highway under max compression). My track wheels, on the other hand, are 19x10 ET12 with 285/35/19 front and 20x10 ET18 with 295/30/20. I don't use spacers with my track wheels.

[Hybridizer]

Went to a local euro shop, that is willing to do track alignments. Paid a bit extra for the amount of time, but I'm happy with the results.

Stock height on my driver front the millway plate maxed out at -3 and also they were able to get me into -2 camber in the rear but with 1/16 toe total that was maxed out as well.

Seems to go along with what others have been saying.

[GTS Daddy]

Originally Posted by Hybridizer

Went to a local euro shop, that is willing to do track alignments. Paid a bit extra for the amount of time, but I'm happy with the results.

Stock height on my driver front the millway plate maxed out at -3 and also they were able to get me into -2 camber in the rear but with 1/16 toe total that was maxed out as well.

Seems to go along with what others have been saying.

How does this setup pan out in the real world? Did you run it on the track? Looking to get my alignment done with OEM suspensh and Millway street camber plates.

[Hybridizer]

I just finished a two day track set with about 10 - 20 minute sessions at my local track of Gingerman Raceway this weekend.

I would say daily use with my setup on the car was a subtle change. It feels a bit more responsive, which I like. I would say street riding is a bit harsher than oem. Even with street plates, I almost think it's the angle of deflection of camber in the front. It is minor but worth at least calling it out. We don't have the best roads in Michigan. There isn't a tram line effect. But you will feel more undulations in the road.

As far as at the track, I'm not sure if it was the alignment or just more seat time in the car but I was about 7 seconds better on my best lap time, and still feel there is plenty more to take out of it. Braking and my corner entry speeds are still my weakness.

Tire wear is waaaaaay less than I was ready for. I had brought a spare set of PZ4 OEMS with me expecting to wear the set Pzero's I was on out. But I'm just now hitting the wear bars on the front, and plenty on the rear. Wear appears to be great with the inside and outside edges looking equal.

I didn't do pyro readings and I'm sure driving style has an impact on wear. But I do feel wear on the outer edges has gone down and overall is better. The camber plates with a good alignment will extend your tire use, in all cases I would think.

[Boomer 2019]

I went to Master Yoda for an update on my alignment since it has been about a year and 18 track days since my last one (alignment constantly changes over time says Yoda, and being Yoda he knows all).

My fronts are now at -3.4 with 0 toe, and rears at -2.0 with 1/16in toe. This is with the MP HAS kit and Vorshlag Camber plates. The secret here to superior tire wear and longevity is the toe settings. If you notice here, the guys who are really happy with their tire wear all have 0 toe up front and 1/16in rear regardless of their camber. Having the correct camber also helps with tire wear, but seemingly not as much as having the correct toe.

[Hit_Apex]

Originally Posted by Boomer 2019

I went to Master Yoda for an update on my alignment since it has been about a year and 18 track days since my last one (alignment constantly changes over time says Yoda, and being Yoda he knows all).

My fronts are now at -3.4 with 0 toe, and rears at -2.0 with 1/16in toe. This is with the MP HAS kit and Vorshlag Camber plates. The secret here to superior tire wear and longevity is the toe settings. If you notice here, the guys who are really happy with their tire wear all have 0 toe up front and 1/16in rear regardless of their camber. Having the correct camber also helps with tire wear, but seemingly not as much as having the correct toe.

Add tire pressure to the equation when not driving on track. Driving home from the track on underinflated tires is very hard on inner wear. Always inflate to the high side off-track with that much camber to spread the load away from the inner side wall.

[Boomer 2019]

I use MP4s both on and off track. Tire pressure on the street is 32lbs cold all around. My target pressure on track is 36lbs hot front, and 35lbs hot rear. I have to fiddle with the pressure over the 1st 3 sessions or so. After that it's pretty much stable for the remainder of the day, although I continue to check them after every session.

On the trip home I leave them where they were at the end of the last session (36/35). They lose some pressure during the drive, but end up at about 32lbs when I get home. The next morning they have dropped to 29-30lbs cold, and I reinflate.

My tire wear has been consistent, and damn near perfect since I dialed in my G82. The surface is absolutely flat from side to side, and there is no rollover or wear on the sidewalls. Inner or outer.

[Hit_Apex]

That’s not a lot of spread, I would still add air if you are over 3 degrees of front camber. +10F-12F degrees is not unusual for a sticky tire. If I target 38 on a hot lap I’m about 25 degrees cold which is problematic for the long drive home at -3.4 camber. Made that mistake already, ruining PSC2 which were fine when I left. Just a tip, ymmv.