Quote:
Originally Posted by ///AVM
Quote:
Originally Posted by vetteflier
Watched a few Youtube vids about older cars and found what I wanted. The module taken off the housing--plastic module attaches to metal exhaust housing to control flaps, which was identical to the one on my M4C. Three 10mm bolts hold it to the housing. Remove it, and you will see a slot. Turn the slot to the fully opened position--I used a needle nosed pliers, it turns easily. If you feel resistance, turn it the other direction--I forget if it was clockwise or counter clockwise. This completely opens the flaps. You need to unplug the connection on the right side to get to one of the bolts. They're all clear on the left. Then, unplug the left lead, electric tape over the connection opening, and cable tie it to the suspension--or anywhere else you'd like. Valves are open and will stay that way.
Haven't taken it out to check the new sound yet, but expect it will be a significant improvement, as the flap was very rarely fully opened, except at full throttle advance. Freer flowing exhaust is always good, and will add a few horses at every rpm where the flaps weren't fully opened. Any mod to the exhaust in front of the valve would be limited to only fully gain when they were fully opened from a sound perspective--and the sound is the one area I wanted to improve. There are $200-300 devices on sale to do the same thing that I did for free. Only problem I had was only being able to use one hand to do it all. If you can raise the rear by 6" or so, would be much easier.
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vetteflier
Thank you for the writeup.
I am bit confused on why all of these steps are required?
If the valves are open, then you pull the plug . . . wouldn't that simply leave the valves open constantly?
Perhaps it is no easy task to actually get the valves fully open before pulling the plug unless approached in the manner you describe?
Namely, seems full valve opening is only achieved in Sport Plus with aggressive throttle. By the time you reach as stop, the valves might be closed again?
Any insight?
I have always liked the idea of purchasing a valve controller system, however, they all seem to come with wiring/mounts/etc that I simply do not want to deal with . . . and do not believe having the valves fully open all of the time would be a problem for me. If so, I would simply plug back in.
///AVM
LBbluem2 I am pinging you on this post because I believe you too have tinkered with this topic |
So I tried to unplug them during a cold start in S+ and it seemed like they found their way to being shut again.
I was kind of suspicious that maybe there was a return spring inside of the actuators that would default the valves back to a closed state when I unplugged them.
I'm trying this out today thanks op for the r&d on this solution 👍🏼