Quote:
Originally Posted by 6speed_M2
They're saying the driver disconnected the JB4 without disconnecting the battery and that caused a circuit or something electrical to malfunction.
The JB4 is a piggyback tune. I believe the racechip is as well. With these tunes, it's basically overriding the factory computer and lying to it to force it to push numbers and extra power that it wouldn't normally push otherwise. I could be butchering this explanation but this is how I understand it currently.
The point to my rambling is that with the piggyback tunes, you're not actually "reflashing" the computer of the car, you're overriding it. Since you're not reflashing it, it won't leave any imprints in the system. A reflash tune where you unlock the ECU like a BM3 tune or EcuTek, will leave an imprint.
As long as you disconnect it properly you should be fine. There's no way of tracing it. I'm sure people get bad issues with their cars, take the tune off, let the codes pop up immediately again and go straight to the dealer without putting 100-200 miles on it and they're clear.
I think you'd be fine.
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Absolutely NOT fine. The systems in our cars track acceleration G forces, 0-60 times etc. If the car records times faster than the stock parameters then that run is flagged in the system. If you have multiple runs outside stock parameters, good luck. You cannot delete it and it has nothing to do with engine parameters. It is purely performance related. They did this specifically to track piggyback tunes.
So if you think that you can avoid warranty issues by running a piggyback, you can't. Warranty work related to engine or transmission stress will be declined as they should be.
Also, submitting a warranty claim on stressed part (clutch, transmission, con rods, crank, etc) for a tuned car is a complete jack @$$ move. If you can't afford to pay out of pocket when things go wrong, don't tune your car.