Quote:
Originally Posted by vetteflier
Exactly. I have the modules (housings) and the bolts I took off, with the shaft in full closed position. Just stuck them away in a plastic bag. I really don't think you'll hurt anything by slowly turning the shaft. I doubt it is locked in any way--needless expense to manufacture. If a future owner for some reason wanted it returned to stock, would take 10 minutes to put back on. Shaft would be in closed position, so I'd rotate the flaps back to full closed, Would index easily.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LBbluem2
@///AVM
Look into replacing your resonators with a true x!
It sounds REALLY good.
Totally quiet in efficient and nice and throaty in s+
Cheap, easy to reverse, and really effective.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///AVM
Thank you LB
I have been a mod queen for a few years now and TRYING to keep it simple. . . . I would be happy if I could keep the valves open at this point.
I did hear your ride and it does sound good.
///AVM
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So I read this thread this morning as I too have either unplugged or modified the flap to not close on previous cars. Here's what I've found.
I looked into the pipes prior to start and the valves are completely closed. I then put car into sport plus and started. Immediately I quick checked the valves with the car running (yes the fumes sucked lol) and the valves were only partially open so assuming the only way to get them to open fully would be to actually drive the car or wind it out parked which neither option work for me and to try an unplug an actuator while doing so.
Another thing I found that you could do and I was tempted but didn't is when you take off the servo where the the actuator connects. The actuator is on a spring in between a bracket. You could pry the spring actuator out and reinstall the servo and no one would ever know the difference but I didn't want to pry the bracket apart in case I damaged it. There is quite a bit of play but none the less I didn't.
On my other cars the set ups were different and easier and like many of you I just can't see an easy way without removing the servo completely like the OP did. This is what I ended up doing myself and I am gonna try it for a bit. I am gonna hopefully do an exhaust mod anyways so we'll see where this takes me.
Another thing I found as I was test driving after the mod is the active sound button and if there was much difference in volume now that the button doesn't control the flaps anymore. The sound inside the car changed some as expected with more fake sound being pumped in with the button active. The exhaust by itself with no active being pumped in did okay but here is the interesting thing I found with the active sound button as I'm assuming nobody would have thought this. Not only does the button control the flaps for quiet mode, fake sound generation, but it also makes the burbles louder on the outside! I know a lot of people have talked of Bimmer Coding the active sound out but I did a test standing outside the car and I'm telling you it made a huge difference in the burbles with the active sound button activated vs turning active sound off. That seemed odd that would be all tied together as if you code active sound out will it still give you the burbles now? I would love to hear someone that has done the code could chime in on this.
One more thing is that even with active sound off (I have a manual tranny) when I depress the clutch the sound gets louder almost like no matter button on or off the sound is pumped in slightly? This has been an interesting science project and there is a lot of stuff we will all be learning the next few months as more people start playing around.