Quote:
Originally Posted by Limegrntaln
Ok, at least you’ve gone that far. I know zero about the G80 clutch system, as my car is a Comp, but, I’ve dealt with clutches on many cars and I’ve heard of similar issues on different platforms. Some of the things, I remember, were while using Clutch Masters clutches, but this kit comes with its own flywheel. I've had at least 3 CM clutches, that I can remember. Otherwise, I’d say I know we had to have the flywheel turned and have a step cut into it, so, it would disengage properly. But this was with an oem pressure plate on another brand of car.
The next thing was manual pedal adjustment. Does the clutch pedal manually adjust from under the dash? Like I said, I’m not sure how this system works. But I know we had some issues with clutch drag and adjusting the pedal, which changed the bite point, helped.
Third, we stacked washers between the bell housing mount point and the slave cylinder. Meaning, remove the two slave bolts and get a washer that would fit bellhousing, washer, slave cylinder, then slave bolt. This moved the slave cylinder forward 2-3mm and would release the clutch.
It sounds like if the manufacturer can’t provide anymore info, and that you’re stuck looking for solutions to their problem. Which always sucks.
Im going to reach out to my buddy Norris in Virginia, he owns P2uned and Prayontoo Racing. They have some 8-9 sec Supras. I know hes starting to deal with manual Supras. One of his biggest race sponsors, is also Clutch Masters, and Driveshaft Shop. He also has a tuned G82.
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This is great advice…I went through something similar with my old F-body race car and a Stage 4 sintered iron disc clutch. When I finally had it sorted I could dump the clutch on that car at 7K rpm on slicks and it would not slip. It also worked amazing on the road course. OP I hope you get it sorted!